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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
You know what the best thing is about buying a Scrambler?? You get 2 bikes in 1. In just a few short hours, and for a minimal investment, you can convert your Scrambler into a Bolt if you so choose. And you can switch back too of course!!
 

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You know what the best thing is about buying a Scrambler?? You get 2 bikes in 1. In just a few short hours, and for a minimal investment, you can convert your Scrambler into a Bolt if you so choose. And you can switch back too of course!!
I am at 3 and counting.
I un"bolt"ed it within 3 days of buying it.
I café-d mine with the C spec stuff a week or so ago.


The café makes you think you're riding a "race bike" - except you're still riding a 550lb pig with pretend dirt tars.


SCR has long enough cables and wires to outright go full cruiser with apes and forward pegs. 4 in 1.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am at 3 and counting.
I un"bolt"ed it within 3 days of buying it.
I café-d mine with the C spec stuff a week or so ago.


The café makes you think you're riding a "race bike" - except you're still riding a 550lb pig with pretend dirt tars.


SCR has long enough cables and wires to outright go full cruiser with apes and forward pegs. 4 in 1.
Awesome!! I actually want to do forward pegs. Can you point me in the right direction??
 

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True forward or just bolt-forward

Awesome!! I actually want to do forward pegs. Can you point me in the right direction??
This may be the hardest and most $$$ of the bunch.


True forward pegs requires stock non C spec bolt footpeg carriers and a kit like a low and mean (which in itself runs like 4-500).


C spec foot peg stuff is same as SCR. Which is why by putting on the C spec clip on's and I got a C spec. I have the seat cowl etc sitting at home. That rear seat clamp off the C I have to fab or buy.


I haven't done this part - but in theory get bolt foot peg carrier assy (gear shift, brake lever etc included) and you can move the pegs to the "bolt" position. That's only 1/2 forward IMHO. The non C spec gear mechanism is completely different from the SCR/C. The peg, the linkage etc etc all different.


Then follow the low mean video, buy the parts and do that for true forward pegs.


The bike turns into a C spec easy IMHO.
The SCR actually turns into a ape hanger/high drag bars easier than R spec or C spec cos its got the longest wires and cables. Just make sure you get 7/8 bars in the apes.


The forward peg situation is the hardest to deal with on this bike. Its what they do in that low-mean video+sourcing the correct R/Base bolt parts (which really are pretty abundant cos they made 10X those even compared C+SCR), but you gotta go get them.

However I think the bike is very very cool as a bolt with SCR handlebar. That setup IMHO is hard to beat.


C spec is enjoyable, but it has a bit of a cognitive dissonance. It tells you it can do things that really would end in you falling flat on your a$$.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Forward relocation has been discussed here before, not sure if anyone ever actually bought any of the options, but they exist.
https://www.scr950forum.com/forum/1...ries/2146-foreward-controls-availability.html
@Rokrover found this product (for $180), but of course there's no guarantee that it would work out of the box for an SCR.
https://sscustomcycle.com/product/forward-control-relocation-kit-bolt/
Yup...I've seen all those. and I know it's super expensive to get the pegs and controls...I just asked from srinath's post cause he mentioned it and I was thinking maybe he knows something the rest of us dont?? I've been pricing up parts on ebay, but I still can't get it to fall under 300. lol
 

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Yup...I've seen all those. and I know it's super expensive to get the pegs and controls...I just asked from srinath's post cause he mentioned it and I was thinking maybe he knows something the rest of us dont?? I've been pricing up parts on ebay, but I still can't get it to fall under 300. lol
The Bolt parts are going to give you the first 4" and would cost under $150 (please don't buy that bent a$$ **** that's on there for $50, that **** is garbage) If you have a local walk-in salvage yard, you may be able to snag one for cheap, there are 10X the R/Base Bolts as the SCR/C and afaik - you're alone in looking for that part - you have a virtual monopoly, you pay what you want to pay, or let it rot on the shelf taking up space (that's your line - to be repeated at will, and we wont say otherwise)

The SS cycle parts are not that robust, nor are they as forward as the lo-mean. And the lo-mean and SS stuff looks very clean - Definite plus for those 2. But to be cheap cheap cheap …. look into one of those Harley/generic ones. There's no trick to it. A peg, a gear lever and a linkage rod oughta do the shifter side, and peg and brake rod oughta do the brake. The side stand stays on its current bracket, cos moving that means you gotta have real robust stuff obviously. That lets you out of buying any Base/R spec stuff, maybe its worth it.

TBH, I consider the lo-mean worth it if you have the bolt stuff, the bolt stuff is what I am not sure about. C spec stuff is just awesome IMHO.

The least Kluge looking of the 3 bikes is the C spec IMHO. The rear fender/seat/tail is a little funky and cobbled together looking but all the rest is nice.
The R/base - that gauge cluster setup along with its bracket is just disgusting.
The SCR - what can I say, there is more brackets than bike. In fact Yamaha is the worlds premier bracket maker. Oh yea they make a motor and frame so you can bolt these brackets on and ride around with them. BTW apart from the 1000's of brackets, SCR looks great. Heck even the brackets look great on it.
 

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BTW, the SS cycle parts can be made out of a few pieces of flatbar. Wont look as clean, and may have some trial and error method, but flatbar is cheap and you may get there in a couple tries in any case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for your input! Good to know I was thinking along the same lines for the most part. I'll explore my options a bit further.
 

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Thanks for your input! Good to know I was thinking along the same lines for the most part. I'll explore my options a bit further.
C spec is growing on me. If anything I want to put clip on's and try it - but tail mods first. The C spec tail and a custom tail light etc etc are what the Srinath ordered.
Yea seriously, I ordered them on ebay.
 

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For forward “pegs” I fitted the Yamaha engine guards that make a nice, simple highway foot rest. Trouble is you then need to move your feet back to the stock pegs for braking and shifting. Not the best for rapid response in an emergency situation.

My ideal Bolt for comfort (seat height plus foot peg location) and looks is the R-Spec with C-Spec seat. I particularly wanted the cast wheels with tubeless tires.

The local dealer is closing out a new 2015 C-Spec for $5,950 but it’s not cheap to “R-Spec-it” by changing out the bars and foot controls, as others are finding out here starting from the SCR base.
 

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I am at 3 and counting.
I un"bolt"ed it within 3 days of buying it.
I café-d mine with the C spec stuff a week or so ago.
Oooh do you have any tips on the c spec hack? I'm looking into a c spec seat and trying to keep as much other stuff as stock as possible.
 

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Hi there, my first post here, sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but I have the opportunity of some xv950 forward controls, which I would like to fit. Before I pull the trigger though, I just really want to check if anyone knows if these will fit?

I have the Uk spec SCR950 which comes with abs....will they be an easy bolt on fit, or am I looking at some issues?

The controls are off a standard xv950.

Thanks
Steve

This may be the hardest and most $$$ of the bunch.


True forward pegs requires stock non C spec bolt footpeg carriers and a kit like a low and mean (which in itself runs like 4-500).


C spec foot peg stuff is same as SCR. Which is why by putting on the C spec clip on's and I got a C spec. I have the seat cowl etc sitting at home. That rear seat clamp off the C I have to fab or buy.


I haven't done this part - but in theory get bolt foot peg carrier assy (gear shift, brake lever etc included) and you can move the pegs to the "bolt" position. That's only 1/2 forward IMHO. The non C spec gear mechanism is completely different from the SCR/C. The peg, the linkage etc etc all different.


Then follow the low mean video, buy the parts and do that for true forward pegs.


The bike turns into a C spec easy IMHO.
The SCR actually turns into a ape hanger/high drag bars easier than R spec or C spec cos its got the longest wires and cables. Just make sure you get 7/8 bars in the apes.


The forward peg situation is the hardest to deal with on this bike. Its what they do in that low-mean video+sourcing the correct R/Base bolt parts (which really are pretty abundant cos they made 10X those even compared C+SCR), but you gotta go get them.

However I think the bike is very very cool as a bolt with SCR handlebar. That setup IMHO is hard to beat.


C spec is enjoyable, but it has a bit of a cognitive dissonance. It tells you it can do things that really would end in you falling flat on your a$$.
 
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