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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Haven’t posted in a while, just finished the 16,000 miles scheduled maintenance and figure I’d update the SCR world.
Odometer reads 19,700.
This will be the third oil change plus filter.
Still using stock air box and original paper filter. SCR version of the drz 3x3 mod.

New plugs for the first time. NKG CPR7EA-9.
Can’t find the iridium ones sadly.
(NKG CPR7EAIX-9)

Castrol semi-synthetic blend 10w-40.
KN 204 oil filter.

5 set of front brakes.
4 set of rear.
I get the good EBC breaks.
The sport touring ones seem to be the best stopping power/longevity.

ECU Flash, stock pipe + Intake.
I still have the crank breather in the air box.
My intake manifold has a pretty good layer of oil after a while. Especially After long highway miles.
I know these motors are notorious for high crankcase pressure but I kinda like the idea of it eating a litter oil.

I have never synced the throttle bodies. But from the oil I can’t tell one is pulling harder than the other.

Vale inspection/adjustment.
Front Cylinder -
Intake: .08mm/.085mm
Ex: .05mm/.05mm
Rear-
Intake: .11mm/.10mm
Ex: .24mm/.25mm

Adjusted to spec:
Intake: .08mm-.12mm
Ex: .22mm- .26mm
I adjusted everything to the loosest within spec. Very tedious. Haha
I like two strokes...

I love this bike. I ride it almost everyday.
If I’m on a flat road it tops out at about 116mph. Hitting 100 is a stretch, your really wringging out the motor it feels like.
There’s really no power after about 80mph.
But it pulls hard to about 77 and then falls off.
I have the rev limiter set to 6000rpm.
I’ll hit it stretching out a corner in third gear. It’s not a sport bike by any means but it is very fun and fulfilling to ride. Even on my Shinko Nobbies I can swing this bike around pretty efficiently. The stock suspension is pretty soft but I’m a very light rider. I have the rear pre load set to the middle position and it’s basically rock solid. The front is very soft. Haha notithing can be done about that.
But slow what would be 1st gear sport bike twisties feel great, you can get on the throttle so hard so fast just because there’s not a ton of power and it’s heavy. V-twin 3rd gear grunt is amazing.
It’s so heavy you can’t really over break the single rotor. The back breaks do a lot on this bike.

I recently started ridding two-up.
What an amazing bike for a passenger.
The flat seat. It’s like your ridding a jet ski. Haha
I do have to over fill the tires from the recommended 41. I usually run 44psi cold.
When I’m doing some spirited ridding I run 38/38cold. Seems to work.
I had nice Bridgestone battlaxs before the Shinkos and had amazing grip. No issues. I’m actually at the point now where I can feel it start to back in on me. On the knobbies you can get like between the knobs and have a weird spot of interrupted traction. It’s very weird until you get used to where it is.

I love this bike. I am used to somthing faster and have a tendency to abuse my motorcycles. But this bike has treated me so well. I can’t belive the utter utility of it.
Stop and go city traffic. I don’t even have to put my feet down. I t just creeps with the clutch out, no gas. It’ll just putt a long.
It does get hot.
My oil looks cooked after 3,000miles.
Spark plugs look spot on. Maybe a little hot brown.
I get any where from 45/50mpg to 25/30mph.
55mph 45+
65mph 40-ish
70/75 spirited ridding 30-35mpg.

Also one day I looked down and a small pebble was poked completely thru my belt...
I pulled it put it’s a very small little slice basically. Not on the edge. It’s like 3/16ths in from the edge.
New belts are $300?! What??
Apparently it’s not a big deal if it’s not on the edge? I’ve put 300miles on and no change in size of the hole.

Bike runs great, I don’t have a single complaint.
It’s a parts bin bike. I’ll say it. I don’t care.
If you really start to look at it you understand what it weighs 500 pounds.
It’s built like a tractor. And very price I take off has some kind of mark where it was checked at the factory.
I hope to get many more miles out of this bike. I have to much invested to sell it. Considering you can get a New Old stock SCR for like $3,200. Lol
But I love it. I don’t plan on getting rid of it any time soon.
I’m planning on making an exhaust and moving the pegs up and out of the way a bit. Low bars, and real tires again. Does any one know if they make Q3+‘s in 19in? Lol

I’m looking for a stock intake cover? If anyone has one I need one.
I lost the metel accent piece on mine?

I digress...
People always ask me what year my bike is and are stunned when I tell them that it’s a 2017. Does anyone else have this experience? It’s really annoying. Lol

Anyways,
Motorcycles are awesome. Don’t forget your regularly scheduled maintenance!
 

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Excellent write up with great info for guys like me who only have 5,000 miles.
I'm surprised you push your oil changes that far out.
Only 3 in 19,700 miles and you say it looks cooked at 3,000 miles.
Am I reading this wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Excellent write up with great info for guys like me who only have 5,000 miles.
I'm surprised you push your oil changes that far out.
Only 3 in 19,700 miles and you say it looks cooked at 3,000 miles.
Am I reading this wrong?
Sorry for the rambling. I just thought I’d share as much data/experience as I could.
When I first got my bike there was zero info out there.

It may be the 4th oil change. I forgot I changed the oil after a short 1000mi. Break in originally. I try to change it every 3,000miles. But have stretched it out to around 5,000 when i road across the country. I am using semi-synthetic. But ideally I would like to change it every 3,000 miles.

I just changed the oil at 2,900 miles and it looks like it needed it. So I won’t be doing that again.
 

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Just for reference, here is the download URL for the SCR950 User Manual:


https://www.yamahamotorsports.com/motorsports/owners-manuals


Oil change intervals:


600, 4000, 8000, 12000, 16000, 20000, and after 24000, repeat every 8000.


Not sure I agree with that, I would have to say 'or as determined by use'.


If you're using full syn oil, I MIGHT agree with the 'recommendation', but personally, I would change every 4k miles for full syn, 3k for conventional, to give a piece of mind. (It is a wet clutch setup, so...)


If you're using an open-element type air cleaner, it should be more frequent, and use better judgement is also a recommendation I will add.


Spark plugs, every 8k miles, as long as you are using the exact type plug it shipped with.


Valve adjustment is every 16k miles, but I would say do that as is relevant to use, condition of oil at changes, and/or best judgement.


Fuel Injection is a flat every 4k miles. I question if that is just check the sync. I would say every 5 tankfuls, run a cleaner for piece of mind.


A little brain dump there...


Wish I could find a service manual for a reasonable price!


.
 
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