I did my own 600 mile service today. I was going to use full synthetic oil like I use in my Valkyrie, but our manual states using a higher grade oil may cause clutch slippage. So I went with 10w40 Yama lube, it should be fine. I have not had to adjust a drive chain/belt in over 30 years- had shaft drive bikes. The manual is a little confusing. I did buy a belt tension gauge and finally figured it out. Heck, back in the day, I would adjust a chain just by feel. I had to move the wheel back about 1/3 of distance between the third and second hash marks from the rear of the swing arm. Does that sound okay? Anyhow, I now only have about 1/4 inch play on the belt with 10 pounds of pressure on the belt. As far as fuel injection synchronization goes, forget it. Creating a makeshift gizmo with hoses, boards, graphs, fluids,- I am not Dr.Frankinstein! As long as the bike runs good, I'm good.
600 mile service
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866 Posts
Congratulations on the new bike!
`Not every new SCR950 needs the belt tension adjusted. Some do, mine did not. The marks are subjective. What's right for one bike might not apply to the one that came right behind it on the assembly line.
Going with a belt gauge and using the marks on the guard is the way to go. Don't be surprised if you don't have to adjust it again until after the 1st tire change. =)
Throttle body synchronization isn't a huge priority until the bike's gotten some miles and things have bedded in, like valves. I checked mine at about 2k miles with a sensitive electronic meter and the cylinders were slightly off from one another.
It takes only a minute to check & set once hooked up, so I did. The result? Maybe a bit better response and smoother running. It didn't hurt. I "inherited" the $600 meter from my former boss when the shop closed. Not something one would normally invest in unless you have several twin-cylinder machines to maintain.
Ebay search on Twinmax synchronizers. One of those will get things right for a good bit less money.
Food for thought: MCN tested one vs. a $1000+ BMW tool and it did everything just as well.
I did a R1100GS for a friend using one and he was really pleased at how well it ran afterward.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_od...RC0.A0.H0.Xtwinmax.TRS0&_nkw=twinmax&_sacat=0
`Not every new SCR950 needs the belt tension adjusted. Some do, mine did not. The marks are subjective. What's right for one bike might not apply to the one that came right behind it on the assembly line.
Going with a belt gauge and using the marks on the guard is the way to go. Don't be surprised if you don't have to adjust it again until after the 1st tire change. =)
Throttle body synchronization isn't a huge priority until the bike's gotten some miles and things have bedded in, like valves. I checked mine at about 2k miles with a sensitive electronic meter and the cylinders were slightly off from one another.
It takes only a minute to check & set once hooked up, so I did. The result? Maybe a bit better response and smoother running. It didn't hurt. I "inherited" the $600 meter from my former boss when the shop closed. Not something one would normally invest in unless you have several twin-cylinder machines to maintain.
Ebay search on Twinmax synchronizers. One of those will get things right for a good bit less money.
Food for thought: MCN tested one vs. a $1000+ BMW tool and it did everything just as well.
I did a R1100GS for a friend using one and he was really pleased at how well it ran afterward.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_od...RC0.A0.H0.Xtwinmax.TRS0&_nkw=twinmax&_sacat=0
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219 Posts
What tool did you use to get your oil drain bolt off? I got a good sized socket wrench with the proper fitting but that thing is on their good. Any recommendations?
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219 Posts
Ah, thanks. That's what I was thinking I'd need. Went ahead and ordered a KN-204 oil filter and an oil filter wrench that Eddie had mentioned on a thread about one that was stuck.Yeah mine was tight too.
Long handle 1/2" drive breaker bar...make sure you're turning the correct way.
Dealership wanted to charge me $150 for the job.
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675 Posts
Yeah you can definately save a few bucks doing it yourself. I use the dealer recommended Yamalube and OEM filter, I don't remember the part number... The oil filter is in a tight spot, I bought a socket type filter wrench that fits onto a 3/8" drive ratchet. I used some 80 grit sandpaper to remove the paint from the inside of it and then it fit ok. I read that some people had a heck of a time removing the filter during first oil change, mine was tight but came off clean. Make sure you dont over tighten the oil filter. Also, when youre finished run your bike and check for leaks, at the drain plug and the filter. Good luck I'm sure you'll be fine.
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866 Posts
This bears repeating/sharing:
Big Bike Parts sells a precision cut filter wrench for the GL1800 Gold Wing that also fits a OEM Yamaha filter perfectly.
My dealer's mechanic got one after I told him and he swears by it now.
They aren't expensive, don't slip or wear out and make changing oil a lot easier.
I even used it on my girlfriend's Toyota Yaris. It filter fine, too!
Pictured is the one I have on my former FZ-09 filter.
Big Bike Parts sells a precision cut filter wrench for the GL1800 Gold Wing that also fits a OEM Yamaha filter perfectly.
My dealer's mechanic got one after I told him and he swears by it now.
They aren't expensive, don't slip or wear out and make changing oil a lot easier.
I even used it on my girlfriend's Toyota Yaris. It filter fine, too!
Pictured is the one I have on my former FZ-09 filter.
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866 Posts
It's a really nice hammer, though! :grin2:
Seriously, when it comes to precise work, good tools are a plus.
It took me forever to find out cross head screws on a metric bike are not "Phillips". Enter a decent set of JIS screwdrivers my girlfriend got me for Christmas a few years ago. Miraculously, master cylinder cap screws quit rounding out shortly thereafter.
I've also lucked into some Matco & SnapOn wrenches, the previously mentioned carb balancer and other assorted bits. No one needs a Fluke multi meter, but when it's a present, you smile and say thank you! And maybe wash their bike. LOL
Now, first one to invent a combination brass and aluminum magnet gets my $.
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39 Posts
By the way, with wet clutches you can use synthetic. Just make sure it's not marked as "Energy Conserving". Those additives will indeed mess your pack up. I've used Rotella in all my bikes with no issues whatsoever. But again, check that is is NOT energy conserving.
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Actually, you can convert a regular Phillips driver to match the JIS profile by grinding the tip down a bit. The attached picture shows my home-converted JIS driver and the mess I made of the screw on the brake-fluid reservoir before conversion. I had to dremel a slot and use a flat-blade screwdriver to extract the screw after rounding it out with the wrong tool!
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866 Posts
My girlfriend got me this set for Christmas a few years ago.
They work great!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hozan-JIS-...498418&hash=item3d865231e4:g:Ng0AAOSwdvVckTJZ
She had to buy the #3 separately, though. Interestingly, it has a metal cap on the handle solely for the purpose of hitting it with a hammer to shock a stock screw loose. Cool!
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