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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I build custom bikes for fun. I'm a computer programmer, so it's just a hobby for me. Now that I own an SCR950, I'll be doing a bunch of mods as well. I'm starting small though. First mod is a simple license plate relocation, using almost all stock parts. I removed the fender brace and then removed the plate holder assembly. I cut the brackets shorter, and bolted on an adjustable angle license plate holder that I had laying around from another build. Can't go back to stock... but why would I want to? I've got an LED license plate frame on order, but I'm not going to bother with it until my actual tag gets here, because the paper tag is the wrong dimensions. Here's pics with the paper tag!

Charles.
 

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Looks nice. I’ve been debating doing that or not. The tail on this bike doesn’t bother me as much as the ones on crotch rockets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Okay, this next mod is for a 6" headlight grill I snagged off of eBay. The measurements are more like 5.75, and it fits a 5.75 chopper headlight a lot better, actually. But the 7" grill (actual 6.5" measurement) is too big, and there's nothing in-between except side-mount grills. So I'm making do with this. The clips that came with the grill would work GREAT on an old Honda 7" headlight (in fact, the 7" grill I got fits perfectly on an old CX500 headlamp with the supplied clips), but with the SCR950 some ingenuity is required.

I initially thought zip ties, but I just don't like zip ties as a permanent attachment solution. However, stainless steel safety wire sounded like a great idea. Unfortunately I didn't have any of that. But the hardware store had picture hanging wire. Not sure how corrosion resistant it is, but it does the job for now.

Charles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Now for some cheapie, fast mods. Renthal bar pad, brown Bitwell Thruster grips, shorty adjustable levers, and stainless thumbscrews for the sidecovers.

The adjustable levers are XSR900 levers off of eBay. They were not plug-and-play. They were poorly machined, and I had to file down the outer radius of the plunger cup, because it interfered with the master cylinder housing. I also had to drill the plunger cup deeper, as it was so shallow that when installed the lever applied the front brakes.

The thruster grips are a little dirty, I should have cleaned them up before taking the photo. They look great and feel even better. I was hoping to find someone who would print me up a custom bar pad, but couldn't find anyone that does such a thing. So I went for a pretty standard 10 inch Renthal pad. Put a small bit of electrical tape in the center of the crossbar to give a little resistance so the pad doesn't spin, otherwise it went right on. Renthal has nicely formed edges, and many of the cheaper brands just have bare foam showing. I might have a seat shop make me a custom leather pad with "Scrambler" embroidered on it, but for now the Renthal logo will do me.

The thumbscrews are AWESOME. Found M6 x 30mm thumbscrews on eBay. Took more than a month to receive them from China, but they were worth the wait. They look amazing and they make removing the sidecovers so much easier. No more worry about a slipping screwdriver scratching my paint! Note that stock screws are M6 x 25mm. I couldn't really tell, but it felt to me like the stock screws only engaged a few threads, so I got longer thumbscrews.

Charles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Oh, and I guess you could call the tank sticker removal a "mod". It doesn't come off cleanly, you'll need a can of 3M adhesive remover (in the automotive trim section of your auto parts store) to get it off. And even then it takes a while.

Charles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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Oh, and I guess you could call the tank sticker removal a "mod". It doesn't come off cleanly, you'll need a can of 3M adhesive remover (in the automotive trim section of your auto parts store) to get it off. And even then it takes a while.

Charles.
Seriously? You can remove the Yamaha from the sides of the tank?
I'd swear that mine was painted on. Doesnt seem at all like sticker????
Seems like its part of the paint under the laquer ???
 

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Hey Chopper Charles. Nice mods Man!!! Notice too youve got several bikes and looked like a chopper front end outside? Cool!
Do you know if anyone makes forward foot controls for the scr?
I want to move them about 5 inches forward.
Thanks Man.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
No the little warning sticker on the top to the right of the fuel filler. Not the Yamaha logos!

Charles.
 

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Oh Okay. I saw a review before I bought the bike and the reviewer said it had a plastic gas cap and a Yamaha Tank sticker!
So I got confused. lol not an uncommon occurrence.
Any advice on forward foot controls for the scr ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hey Chopper Charles. Nice mods Man!!! Notice too youve got several bikes and looked like a chopper front end outside? Cool!
Do you know if anyone makes forward foot controls for the scr?
I want to move them about 5 inches forward.
Thanks Man.
That's a stock CX500 Custom front end, not a chopper front end.

Forward control relocation brackets for an XV950 C-Spec will work on the SCR950... but why you'd want forward controls on a scrambler is beyond me. :)

My plans are actually to move the stock pegs backwards, not forwards...

Charles.
 

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That's a stock CX500 Custom front end, not a chopper front end.

Forward control relocation brackets for an XV950 C-Spec will work on the SCR950... but why you'd want forward controls on a scrambler is beyond me. :)

My plans are actually to move the stock pegs backwards, not forwards...

Charles.
Hey Chopper Charles. Thank you for the info. I want the pegs moved up because Im 50 something and my legs and hips dont work like they used to and I'd be much more comfortable on the bike. Also I didnt buy it to go scrambling. Its not designed for it and the manual even says it should not be driven off road. And like stated above.. Im 50 something and my scrambling days are done.
If I go off road.... Its because I F'D up!!! lol..
I bought it because its the size shape and weight of my first bike. 77 KZ 750. The SCR is 4 pounds heavier than the KZ. I figured it would be a good transition into a modern bike.
Im sure the SCR can be turned into a scrambler. But just check page 2-2 middle column at the bottom. Even though they call it a scrambler and show ads with people riding off road.... Its not a scrambler and Yamaha even admits it in the owners manual.
I also bought it because the price was $4999.00. For all this bike!!! Incredible! Thanks Man. Il look into those c spec controls.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So you give the nod to a cheap plastic knob that presses onto an Allen bolt, over a solid hunk of nicely machined stainless steel, just because “China is bad, mmkay?”

Okay. Your prerogative. I’m not drinking that coolaid, though.

Charles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Here's a bigger mod! Short of it: I installed 12.25" FORSA shocks on my SCR950, and then slid the tubes down in the trees until the fork cap is flush with the top of the triple tree. That ends up being 1.75" taller in the back, and 0.25" taller in the front. Raising the rear higher than the front gives me a bit quicker handling, which I like very much. The bike is still rock-solid stable at high speeds, though. No wobble, no twitchiness, no problems whatsoever.

The FORSA shocks are sold on eBay as Harley Sportster 12.25 shocks, and they're the only one (currently) with red springs.

Long-windedness:
I did a buttload of measurements when checking to see if these shocks would work. They have half an inch more shock travel than stock shocks, which equates to 0.625" of additional travel at the swingarm. I measured the OEM shocks and adjusted the belt tension as the manual stated. With the 10lb force gauge, I adjusted the belt deflection to 6mm with the bike on the side stand. Then I jacked it up, and jacked the swingarm up to full OEM compression. At that position, I checked the tension again. The 10 lb force gauge moved the belt only 3mm. So, I then jacked the swingarm to the fully compressed position for the FORSA shocks, and adjusted the tension to 3mm there. I then put the FORSA shocks on, lowered the bike, and checked the belt tension with the force gauge. 9mm of deflection at 10 lbs. That's only 1mm of deflection outside of the 6mm-8mm range. That's actually within the margin of error of adjusting the tension, as some areas of the belt are a little tighter and some a little looser. What this means is that no tensioner pulley is required.

If you want long-travel shocks to give yourself some real suspension travel, then yeah you'll need some sort of tensioner pulley on the backside of the belt. But with these 12.25" sportster shocks, you can EASILY get away without such a modification.

That said, to fit these shocks the swingarm has to move downward far more than stock. If you have the stock exhaust, there is a little bracket on the swingarm that holds the brake line out of the rear tire. This bracket will come into contact with the big metal bracket that holds the stock muffler in place. I removed the bracket and trimmed it with an angle grinder and a cutting wheel. (You could use a dremel as well). I trimmed the front hole so that it's a notch instead of a hole (you could also just make it into a slot), and I also cut off part of the brake line bracket that interfered with the muffler bracket. If you're under the bike looking at it, it's easy to see where it interferes. After cutting I painted it with some Rustoleum and reinstalled, adjusting it to make sure it didn't touch the muffler bracket. You can't see the base of this brake line bracket, as it's behind the muffler. The paint is just for corrosion protection.

"So", you're wondering, "after all this work, how do they handle?!" Well, I'll tell you... the bike handles like it's on RAILS with this setup. The rear suspension feels much like stock shocks. No big changes. On the lowest preload, the bike still feels firm. But it doesn't bottom when going over speed humps at 40mph, so that's a big change. I just rode the bike a good 20 miles, and came back with chattering teeth and numb fingers... but it was worth it. Everywhere I'd normally scrape a peg - or worse, drag undercarriage - were completely without incident. The bike turned in faster than stock because of the reduction in trail, and held a line better as well. It's like suddenly I injected a teensy little bit of R6 handling into my SCR950. It goes around corners like it's on rails now. But 70mph on the highway is still rock-solid stable. I can still take my hands off the bars without any wobble, and the bike doesn't feel twitchy at all. I FREAKING LOVE IT

So in short you'll need:

It's not a super hard mod if you've got a work shop and you work on bikes all the time... but it's definitely not simply a bolt-on.

Charles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Oh... well, unless you like using a block of wood every time you stop, you'll also want to extend the kickstand a bit. I didn't have a spare stand to cut apart and use for filler material, and I found that using 2" under the stand was the perfect height... so I just did this. It doesn't look perfect, but it's quite functional. It's still bare steel because it's too cold to paint it right now.

Charles.
 

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helpful hardware man

So you give the nod to a cheap plastic knob that presses onto an Allen bolt, over a solid hunk of nicely machined stainless steel, just because “China is bad, mmkay?”

Okay. Your prerogative. I’m not drinking that coolaid, though.

Charles.
to hold a plastic panel. interesting
 

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Here's a bigger mod! Short of it: I installed 12.25" FORSA shocks on my SCR950, and then slid the tubes down in the trees until the fork cap is flush with the top of the triple tree. That ends up being 1.75" taller in the back, and 0.25" taller in the front. Raising the rear higher than the front gives me a bit quicker handling, which I like very much.
Charles.
Looks cool but does this now put more stress on your steering head bearings? Is upgrading to tapered roller bearings something to consider? Reason I ask is because I am looking into upgrading the rear suspension on my bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If I were to rake the bike out like a chopper then upgraded bearings would be a must. I’m actually reducing lateral stress on the steering head bearings ever so slightly by raising the rear.

Charles.
 
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