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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Any of you boys checked yours recently?

Manual says 6-8mm, which is **** tight. I last reset mine last year, when I had rear wheel off to replace a puncture. Having checked it yesterday, it was 9-10mm (at various points), which seems fine to me. There’s plenty of discussion online with manufactuers recommending too tight chain free play, and owners generally running them slightly looser. Just wondered what consensus on here was?

I use one of those belt tension gauges BTW, which is a faff in itself. I also have a laser alignment tool, which is good, and shows current alignment to be spot on (does show the ‘marks’ on the swing arm to be slightly off though)
Ben
 

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Any of you boys checked yours recently?

Manual says 6-8mm, which is **** tight. I last reset mine last year, when I had rear wheel off to replace a puncture. Having checked it yesterday, it was 9-10mm (at various points), which seems fine to me. There’s plenty of discussion online with manufactuers recommending too tight chain free play, and owners generally running them slightly looser. Just wondered what consensus on here was?

I use one of those belt tension gauges BTW, which is a faff in itself. I also have a laser alignment tool, which is good, and shows current alignment to be spot on (does show the ‘marks’ on the swing arm to be slightly off though)
Ben
In life, tighter is usually better! But in the life of a chain, or belt, sprocket or pulley, not to mention the bearings, looser is better than too tight. As long as you're not skipping a cog under hard acceleration, you should be good to go!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
So, I finally got some new tires fitted today (I’ll do a separate thread on those), but when I came to re-fit the rear, and remind myself of the required belt tension (and esp. the force required to check the belt tension), I noticed the following disparity between the owners manual which comes with the bike, and a workshop manual (which I now have a copy of on the computer).

Anybody see what’s wrong??

@Schu - what does your manual say about this?

Ben
 

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So, I finally got some new tires fitted today (I’ll do a separate thread on those), but when I came to re-fit the rear, and remind myself of the required belt tension (and esp. the force required to check the belt tension), I noticed the following disparity between the owners manual which comes with the bike, and a workshop manual (which I now have a copy of on the computer).

Anybody see what’s wrong??

@Schu - what does your manual say about this?

Ben
I think your manual had the wrong conversion over to lbf.
Mine shows 10 where yours shows 33
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I think your manual had the wrong conversion over to lbf.
Mine shows 10 where yours shows 33
Yeah, your pic is the same as my ‘owners’ manual then. Is that your owners manual, or the ‘workshop’ manual??

The thing is chief, 45Nm does equal 4.5kgf and 33 lbft, not 10lbft (see pic). So, your manual has the figures converted incorrectly too.

Now, from past experience, 10lbft would seem to be the way to go....it was with Harley, and my gauge is set up for that too (also pictured). I readjusted a year and a half ago, when I got a rear puncture, and had no issues.

And, can you imagine how tight it’d have to be, if applying 33lbft was only allowed to deflect the belt 7-9mm??! :surprise:

Ben
 

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I think your manual had the wrong conversion over to lbf.
Mine shows 10 where yours shows 33
Yeah, your pic is the same as my ‘owners’ manual then. Is that your owners manual, or the ‘workshop’ manual??

The thing is chief, 45Nm does equal 4.5kgf and 33 lbft, not 10lbft (see pic). So, your manual has the figures converted incorrectly too.

Now, from past experience, 10lbft would seem to be the way to go....it was with Harley, and my gauge is set up for that too (also pictured). I readjusted a year and a half ago, when I got a rear puncture, and had no issues.

And, can you imagine how tight it’d have to be, if applying 33lbft was only allowed to deflect the belt 7-9mm??! /forum/images/SCR950Forum/smilies/tango_face_surprise.png

Ben
Am I COMPLETELY nuts?!🤪
I have not checked the belt tension in 4,600 miles. I don't even have a guage. Where did you guys get yours? Usually, I am pretty much obsessed with maintaining my bikes, but this is my first belt drive and I'm treating it like one of the several shaft driven bikes I have owned. Besides, Ben, just changing tires shouldn't change the tension. Should it? Jevers
 

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Yeah, your pic is the same as my ‘owners’ manual then. Is that your owners manual, or the ‘workshop’ manual??

The thing is chief, 45Nm does equal 4.5kgf and 33 lbft, not 10lbft (see pic). So, your manual has the figures converted incorrectly too.

Now, from past experience, 10lbft would seem to be the way to go....it was with Harley, and my gauge is set up for that too (also pictured). I readjusted a year and a half ago, when I got a rear puncture, and had no issues.

And, can you imagine how tight it’d have to be, if applying 33lbft was only allowed to deflect the belt 7-9mm??! :surprise:

Ben
That was my Service Manual.
So maybe the 10lb-ft is correct and the 45N is the one that is wrong.
 

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Am I COMPLETELY nuts?!🤪
Besides, Ben, just changing tires shouldn't change the tension. Should it? Jevers
You are correct. Changing the tire doesn't change the belt tension. But removing the wheel does......
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You are correct. Changing the tire doesn't change the belt tension. But removing the wheel does......
Yep.

I reading up on this on the Bolt forum last night, and a bloke on there reckoned he had had his rear wheel out 3 times, but never had to re-tension his belt, as he “made sure” the adjusters didn’t move each time! Yeah, right......like to see how he managed that. Prat.

Jevers - they’re available from most bike maintenance places, as there’s lots of Harley riders over there!! :wink2:

Ben
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I checked mine before putting it up for winter and it was 8-10 mm. Perfectly fine.
Yeah......but was it straight?! :nerd:
Ben
 

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(snip) I reading up on this on the Bolt forum last night, and a bloke on there reckoned he had had his rear wheel out 3 times, but never had to re-tension his belt, as he “made sure” the adjusters didn’t move each time! Yeah, right......like to see how he managed that. Prat. (snip)Ben
It's not as crazy as it seems. I've removed a wheel from a bike many times without loosening the adjusters on both chain and belt driven models. In fact, that's how I did it on my SCR950 when I replaced the tires last July. I just made sure the adjustment nuts were nice and snug before I started. Now, wrestling the axle back in with no assistance wasn't exactly easy. But, it is doable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It's not as crazy as it seems. I've removed a wheel from a bike many times without loosening the adjusters on both chain and belt driven models. In fact, that's how I did it on my SCR950 when I replaced the tires last July. I just made sure the adjustment nuts were nice and snug before I started. Now, wrestling the axle back in with no assistance wasn't exactly easy. But, it is doable.
Yeah, I’m not sure I’d trust myself not to knock something, personally. When I put the wheels back on about a fortnight ago, I spent about an hour and a half realigning the back wheel and tensioning the belt etc. What a ballache!!
Ben
 

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Resurrecting an old thread, when you guys check the belt tension, do you leave the bikes' weight on the rear tire, or do you suspend it in the air, via a lift? This is my first belt driven bike. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Resurrecting an old thread, when you guys check the belt tension, do you leave the bikes' weight on the rear tire, or do you suspend it in the air, via a lift? This is my first belt driven bike. Thanks
If you look at post 3 on this thread, I’ve included pictures of both the owners manual (which suggests checking it whilst on the side stand), and the workshop manual, which suggests elevating the bike on a lift. I do the latter, so I can rotate the wheel easily and check the belt at various points. Adjust to spec when at the tightest point.
Ben
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks, Ben. I had looked at both, hence the confusion. Sorta like saying "Let me tell you this about that" :confused:
Yeah, you’ll also notice the differing recommendations for the force required to actually tension the belt....... :confused::confused::confused: indeed!!
Ben
 
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