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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so I am planning on changing my turn signals to LED's. I bought some 1157's as indicated by pretty much every website out there. When I took out the factory bulb, it is definitely not an 1157. There are 3 lugs on the sides. Anyone happen to know what size bulbs they actually are? I suppose I could just change the socket to an 1157 too....but thought I'd check and see what the heck is going on here.
 

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I just went out and removed a front signal bulb and those are weird.
Not only do they have three pins, no two are 180 degrees from each other like on a two pin 1157.
Likewise, the single filament rear signals have two pins that aren't across from each other.
They aren't replaceable with 1156s or 1158s.
The bulbs may very well be proprietary Yamaha parts. =(
 

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I just went out and removed a front signal bulb and those are weird.
Not only do they have three pins, no two are 180 degrees from each other like on a two pin 1157.
Likewise, the single filament rear signals have two pins that aren't across from each other.
They aren't replaceable with 1156s or 1158s.
The bulbs may very well be proprietary Yamaha parts. =(

This site is truly worth the price of admission!
Here I figured spare bulbs would be a non-issue. Looking forward to more on this subject.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This site is truly worth the price of admission!
Here I figured spare bulbs would be a non-issue. Looking forward to more on this subject.
Got you covered on the rear turns. another bike I worked on used them so I had a couple laying around. P21W. I'm replacing mine with red ones and doing a triple play.


I've got some ideas for the front turns from hard wiring, to changing the socket to an 1157. I'm going to rip into it this weekend and see which route I wanna go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So here’s what I’ve found. The metal piece in the front turn signal housing says PY21W. I’m gonna have to dig some more on this one cause the actual bulb is a dual bayonet style with 3 lugs, and all I’m finding on a quick search are single bayonet with 2 lugs when I search for PY21W. More to come as I dig some more. Here’s some pics. There’s something stamped on the bulb too but mine aren’t very clear. Or it could just be my eyes. Lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This is a pain in the ass trying to find replacement bulbs so I took the housing off to look at it. Easy enough to take it apart. I’m just gonna hardwire some YAM13 Amber/whites from Custome Dynamics. I checked fitment cause I already have some on the vstar. I’ll post pics when I get them done. Here are pics of what I took apart tonight. This is just the right side. Black wire is negative, Blue is constant, and Green is signal. There’s a tab that holds the socket in. Bend it down, pull the retaining tab out, rotate the socket and pull it out I just cut the wires from the socket for when the hardwire.
 

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I want to change all the lights on my bike to LEDs. LEDS are brighter, last longer, and consume less power than standard incandescent bulbs. I have seen a number of members have converted their headlight bulb to LED. This appears to be a straight forward swap with no modifications required. Converting signals on the other hand does require modification. If you swap your stock signal bulbs to LEDs you will notice they flash at a much faster rate. This is because they draw less power. To correct the flash rate to a normal speed requires the addition of a flasher module (?) OR splicing in load resistors(?). Hoping that if anyone has done this they can provide details of what is required.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I want to change all the lights on my bike to LEDs. LEDS are brighter, last longer, and consume less power than standard incandescent bulbs. I have seen a number of members have converted their headlight bulb to LED. This appears to be a straight forward swap with no modifications required. Converting signals on the other hand does require modification. If you swap your stock signal bulbs to LEDs you will notice they flash at a much faster rate. This is because they draw less power. To correct the flash rate to a normal speed requires the addition of a flasher module (?) OR splicing in load resistors(?). Hoping that if anyone has done this they can provide details of what is required.
for what I'm doing, I'm going to be adding in the load resistors. I've had good luck with the ones I typically use. The only really issue...and it's minor...is where am I going to put the resistors for the front. Haven't decided yet. my turns from Custom Dynamics haven't come in yet, so I haven't really decided.


I've been taking some pictures as I go along so I can post some directions if you end up being interested in how I am doing mine.....but it is very hands on. I am using the original signal housings, cutting the bulb sockets, lengthening the wires, and using butt connectors so they're removeable if I ever need to.
 
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