[eddie]

I've had really good service out of ProGrip's #714 gel dual sport grips over the years. They don't dry out or get hard and, since they are once piece of material and not laminated like other ProGrip designs, don't come apart with time.
The bad news is they are too long for use in place of the stock grips without cutting the ends of the grips off. Without bar end weights or mirrors, that would leave the bar end open and kind of ugly to some.
A small vinyl pipe cap might......might.... fit over the end of the bar and inside the end of the grip to clean things up. If you go this route, ask around your favorite motorcycle shop and see if they have some 7/8" specific ones around. I have seen them included with some aftermarket grip sets in the past.
As you might can see in the photos, the 714s are slightly thicker than the original Yamaha grips. Unless you have really small hands, it shouldn't be a problem. Another issue these grips avoid is adhesion.
No glue required!
I simply cleaned the handlebars with some brake cleaner and then shot a little inside the grips before sliding them on. Once in position, the brake cleaner evaporates, leaving the grips firmly in place. Want to remove them later? Just ease a thin screwdriver or long, slender punch in between the bar & grip and spray a little brake cleaner inside the gap created. Work the screwdriver/punch sideways all the way around the bar to distribute the liquid (very easy) and the grip will slide right off.

 

[Cruze]

Brake cleaner is a dope tip... never thought about that and considering how much I love using it, I should have haha! But that does look really comfy and clean though. Aesthetically alone, I prefer those over the oem ones.

 

[OpenRoad]

And only $10. What bar end cap did you use?

 

[eddie]

And only $10. What bar end cap did you use?

Those are 1st generation Suzuki SV650 bar end weights secured with 1/4"X20 stainless bolts screwed into drilled/tapped holes in the ends of the bars. I had to Dremel out the throttle tube's end for clearance and space the weight out with some nylon spacers.
The bolts, drill/tap set & spacers all came from Home Depot.
The weights came from RonAyers.com .
Naturally, as soon as I bought the weights and went to install them, I found an identical set in the back of a toolbox drawer! LOL
{I thought I'd used them to repair my girlfriend's old GS500F and figured I didn't have any around.}

 

[Tadlock]

So there is a solid plug in the handlebars then....I want to put on a set of bark busters (Just the metal bar, no plastic) and haven't taken a peak in there yet. Looks good Eddie!

 

[eddie]

So there is a solid plug in the handlebars then....I want to put on a set of bark busters (Just the metal bar, no plastic) and haven't taken a peak in there yet. Looks good Eddie!

Thanks!
Yep, there's a solid metal bar pressed into each end of the bars. It's held in place by tack welds at two points (depicted in the blurry shot below).
I've heard of Bolt riders carefully drilling out the welds and then pulling the bar out (drilled and then with a slide hammer, maybe?)

Note: If you take the OEM grips off and intended to reuse them, they are identical. That is, the throttle side is the same inside diameter as the clutch side. The grip is stretchy like a sock. There's an index make along the face of the grip flange with R /L and an arrow next to each letter. Point whichever arrow up depending upon the side where it's being used. If you accidentally damage a grip, order a left one no matter which one you broke. They are the same in reality, but the right side is only available with the throttle tube installed and costs a bunch more than the "left" grip in the fiche. =)

 

[Tadlock]

Thanks for the info Eddie, I'll either look into getting new protaper bars or building a jig to drill the center of the plug and tap it for a secure mount.