Check/adjust the steering head bearing. You can do it yourself with a proper service manual for instructions, or you can fix it using one of the handy tools below.
Mine was fine until I hit around 4,000 miles. Now I've got the wobbles too.
Handle bar shake
I have noticed a front end shake in the handle bars. It shows up at high speeds, over 80, and lows around 15. Is there a fix to this?
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Mine was fine until I hit around 4,000 miles. Now I've got the wobbles too.
This should open to the correct page for the steering head check/adjustment procedures.
https://www.yamahapubs.com/ebook/LIT-11616-30-15/LIT-11616-30-15.html#p=111
https://www.yamahapubs.com/ebook/LIT-11616-30-15/LIT-11616-30-15.html#p=111
Thanks Schu, I downloaded that service manual so I can reference it if I'm on the road and don't have the actual manual with me. JeversThis should open to the correct page for the steering head check/adjustment procedures.
https://www.yamahapubs.com/ebook/LIT-11616-30-15/LIT-11616-30-15.html#p=111
A few on the Bolt forum have swapped the standard bearings whilst in there for tapered bearings - might be something to consider? Couple of relevant threads over there:
https://www.yamahastarbolt.com/technical-library/steering-head-bearing-swap/
https://www.yamahastarbolt.com/tech...d-steering-head-bearings/msg249042/#msg249042
(‘All balls’ tapered bearings seem to be popular):
https://www.yamahastarbolt.com/general-yamaha-star-bolt-discussion/shakes/msg286004/#msg286004
Ben
https://www.yamahastarbolt.com/technical-library/steering-head-bearing-swap/
https://www.yamahastarbolt.com/tech...d-steering-head-bearings/msg249042/#msg249042
(‘All balls’ tapered bearings seem to be popular):
https://www.yamahastarbolt.com/general-yamaha-star-bolt-discussion/shakes/msg286004/#msg286004
Ben
I only noticed it when someone mentioned it on the Bolt forum... to be fair I always ride holding on to the bars either one or two handed, I never ride non handed.
I have noticed it's been reduced when I fitted the rear shock risers leading me to thinking the front end up, back end down may play a part in this? Who knows but like SCRBen posted, tapered bearings are the way forward according to the Bolt owners.
I have noticed it's been reduced when I fitted the rear shock risers leading me to thinking the front end up, back end down may play a part in this? Who knows but like SCRBen posted, tapered bearings are the way forward according to the Bolt owners.
Is there really a noticeable improvement over the OEM bearings?
Has anyone on here put on 4,000 miles for comparison?
Will the All Balls bearings still loosen up over the miles? Thanks in advance. Jevers
Having heard about the Bolt head shake trait before buying an SCR950,
I went old school and gave the adjusting ring a tap or three with a long punch and hammer when it only had about 2,000-2,200 miles on it.
It barely moved, but the steering still felt nice and smooth without being bound-up at all.
I bought a proper adjustment wrench and did it the right way at about 5,000 miles.
At no time before, during or after that time did I ever experience the slightest headshake.
I even tried to make it do it by taking my hands off the bars when slowing from highway speed down a freeway off ramp.
The only thing I may have done different than most is I drilled and tapped the original bar ends to accept a set of SV650 weights.
I went old school and gave the adjusting ring a tap or three with a long punch and hammer when it only had about 2,000-2,200 miles on it.
It barely moved, but the steering still felt nice and smooth without being bound-up at all.
I bought a proper adjustment wrench and did it the right way at about 5,000 miles.
At no time before, during or after that time did I ever experience the slightest headshake.
I even tried to make it do it by taking my hands off the bars when slowing from highway speed down a freeway off ramp.
The only thing I may have done different than most is I drilled and tapped the original bar ends to accept a set of SV650 weights.
I think some my be mistaking 'tramming' as head shake?
Tramming is when the tire follows imperfections/grooves in the road, wider tires, and certain tread patterns are more susceptible to tramming, and the SCR OE tires are horrible for this.
.
Tramming is when the tire follows imperfections/grooves in the road, wider tires, and certain tread patterns are more susceptible to tramming, and the SCR OE tires are horrible for this.
.
There may be an occasion when the tires have developed a bit of siping or cupping and this will contribute to a bit of "wobble".
There are many threads on other motorcycle forums in regard to front-end wobble. Much of that is tire related.
There are many threads on other motorcycle forums in regard to front-end wobble. Much of that is tire related.
Experienced some fairly heavy head shake on my ride down from Independence Pass into Aspen this weekend.There may be an occasion when the tires have developed a bit of siping or cupping and this will contribute to a bit of "wobble".
There are many threads on other motorcycle forums in regard to front-end wobble. Much of that is tire related.
Heavy deceleration / rough grooved roads / both hands off the bars (yes I know! I know! ..but my throttle hand went to sleep)
“handlebars looked like a Labrador flapping its ears!”
Solution:
Grab the bars / gas it and it goes right away.
-Doesn’t do the “shake” if I remove the panniers... (I think the bike is secretly asking for a wheelie ...😉)
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