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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I ordered the hooligan reverse cone muffler off of Amazon for $61 along with 2 rolls of dei titanium header wrap for $62. A couple hours later and a little fab work and this is the end result. Sounds really similar to the Vance and hines comp slip on for a quarter of the cost and probably identical performance gains. I love it so far!!
 

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Think we’ll need a YouTube video of that.....!!
Ben
 

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Right on, be cool to hear it!

Looks like your front fender might be on backwards. I think the longer end goes to the back
 

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Haha it could be, I've never paid any attention to it. I'll check it out when I get home
It's a common thing among Bolt owners to find the dealership did that (front fender on backwards) upon assembly.
I had to chuckle when I bought my FZ8. The dealer himself put my bike together with the front wheel on backwards. It was symmetrical, so he never bothered to notice the arrows. I found it a week later while washing the bike. A quick lift, remove and switch it 'round correctly solved that. He was quite embarrassed. =)
 

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That's so weird! One of these images is from Yamaha's US website, and one is from a European one... look at the end of the front fender in relation to the bend in the frame.





Looks like maybe everyone will want to check their front fenders...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That's so weird! One of these images is from Yamaha's US website, and one is from a European one... look at the end of the front fender in relation to the bend in the frame.





Looks like maybe everyone will want to check their front fenders...
So which one is right?! I just turned mine around haha
 

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So which one is right?! I just turned mine around haha
Like @flatrack said, you want it longer at the back. That way it protects more of the frame/engine from shite getting flicked up by the front wheel.
Ben
 

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Has anyone shared what that Hooligan exhaust set up sounds like on the 950? Seems to be a great price and I really like how it looks. Guess as its a custom set up it might be hard to come by.
 

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Okay, mine is either backward or "European," so do I have to drop the wheel to back the bolts out enough to flip the fender? Hope not, because I don't have a lift.
 

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Okay, mine is either backward or "European," so do I have to drop the wheel to back the bolts out enough to flip the fender? Hope not, because I don't have a lift.
If you don't get an answer by this evening I will look it up in my overpriced service/repair manual and let you know what it says.

Everyone was happy with their front fenders until old eagle eyes over there in Canada has to point it out. Lol

He sees things that guy.
 

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If you don't get an answer by this evening I will look it up in my overpriced service/repair manual and let you know what it says.

Everyone was happy with their front fenders until old eagle eyes over there in Canada has to point it out. Lol

He sees things that guy.

Yeah, I see the Tigers missing the postseason this year....again :)

My dad was born about an hour SOUTH of Detroit, oddly enough in Canada lol. I've driven over the Ambasador bridge many times...I love the U.S, if I could figure out a way to live in California we'd move in a heartbeat.
 

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If you don't get an answer by this evening I will look it up in my overpriced service/repair manual and let you know what it says.
I can’t imagine the wheel needs to come off - as suggested - never seen that before, if it does.
Ben
 

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Okay, mine is either backward or "European," so do I have to drop the wheel to back the bolts out enough to flip the fender? Hope not, because I don't have a lift.
Ok. So the service manual only discusses front fender removal as it would be related to removing one or both forks. So obviously they tell you to first remove the front wheel........ Sorry. No help from me. But I'm guessing you could air down the tire and put the squeeze on it enough to remove the screws.

But when you go to put it back on be sure to torque them to
23 Nm (2.3 kgf-m, 17 lb-ft) You will have to remove the wheel so you can get your torque wrench on it. Lol
 

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Ok. So the service manual only discusses front fender removal as it would be related to removing one or both forks. So obviously they tell you to first remove the front wheel........ Sorry. No help from me. But I'm guessing you could air down the tire and put the squeeze on it enough to remove the screws.

But when you go to put it back on be sure to torque them to
23 Nm (2.3 kgf-m, 17 lb-ft) You will have to remove the wheel so you can get your torque wrench on it. Lol
The Schu giveth and taketh away. I liked paragraph 1 which suggested a work-around for removal, then you had to go and bring up the torquey thing in paragraph 2. Looks like I'll have to strap it upright for lateral stability and try to get a jack underneath to raise the front a bit to get this done properly, or use the torque settings in my elbow and maybe a little blue loc-tite and hope for the best.

Thanks for looking it up.
 

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The torque specs was said as a joke. No way would I remove the wheel. Let the air out and you will get the screws out.
 

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The torque specs was said as a joke. No way would I remove the wheel. Let the air out and you will get the screws out.
Dunno.....I’ve just been out to have a look, and you’d really have to squash the tyre down or inwards to be able to get the guard off with the wheel-in-situ. Maybe if the tyre comes easily off the rim, but I think it might be a wheel-off job after all - happy to be proven wrong!
Ben
 

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Dunno.....I’ve just been out to have a look, and you’d really have to squash the tyre down to be able to get the guard off with the wheel-in-situ. I think it might be a wheel-off job after all, but happy to be proven wrong!
Ben
Didn't a few people already say they flipped their fenders? They must be out riding instead of hanging out on the forum.
 
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