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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did a license plate mod - but mine is a bolt, with a crappy rear fender, and its getting further hacked once the C spec crap shows up …
But simplistic and no parts to buy - my favorite aspect, free (if your fender is crappy and going to be further mutilated anyway) fast, easy, minimal tools ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
free is good, I'm trying to see how far I can go without cutting or drilling. Eventually I will get past that point, but I want to know where it is.
That same mod is possible on a bolt fender without drilling.
Now SCR fender doesn't have the same width, curvature or the studs to do anything like what I am about to suggest, so its useless info.
At the bottom on the bolt fender there are 2 6mm I believe bolts sticking toward the wheel. You could take a piece of sheet metal and bend it into a tight Z of sorts and drill it to match those 2 and the other part would bolt to the lower bolt holes of the license plate.
Then of course you would have to secure the plate itself to the fender - I'd suggest you still would bend the plate to match the fender, put Velcro or 2 sided tape and put a zip tie over the top run it through the upper mount holes and into some where. You cant have wind get under the plate, it will bend and break it eventually, worse yet, it will rattle.
Anyway I don't recall if the SCR has that fitting, cos SCR has a huge plate carrier hanging off the seat hoop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm pretty sure there is bolts in the scr fender as well. This idea should work awesomely on it, added benefit - the fender is narrower, a US spec license plate may just about be as tight with it as you can get, and you will have fender below the plate, which IMHO is better looking than my plate in the air past the 1/2 way mark.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mods - Please add this to my previous post and delete (or leave it - as is no worries).

PS: You can mount the top with neo magnets bolted to the plate that would stick to the fender. Its just to keep it there against wind getting under it. Wouldn't need that zip tie then. However Z plate for the bottom may have to be a U plate because the plate will not hang below the fender like mine does. Would look better, but is harder to make.

Oh screw that all. Get 4 neodymium magnets with countersunk holes - the strongest mofo's you can buy. N60 … N300 whatever will pull the fillings out of your teeth from across the street … a big swatch of Velcro. Bend the plate to match the fender. Bolt the 4 magnets with countersunk screws to the license plate. Clean the fender and the plate. Velcro away. The Velcro should keep it there. The magnets are just to keep the corners from lifting at speed. Oh sheite … I'm so totally gonna do this when I swap the tails in a month or 2. Stuff like this makes me go … WTH, why didn't Yamaha do this (of course bending a plate isn't 100% speced out DOT. so they cant)
 

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The seat concepts foam shape and cover is much much much more comfortable than the stock seat. Money well spent. I've seen a few people say that it's not that different, I feel like it's night and day. I also sit further back on the wider part of the seat, maybe that helps.
 

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Still liking my stainless knobs. /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif

Charles.
I was one click away from those same knobs, honestly I think your chinese steel looks pretty nice. I remembered the replacement mounting knobs from a set of bags being easy to open with gloves and that alone was the buying decision. These are just right with the indent on the number plate.
 

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