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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm on the Yamaha website, and one of the accessories listed is an oil change kit for $41.99. Seems like a good price and has everything you need. The weird thing is that the oil is 20W-50, and there doesn't seem to be an alternative option for viscosity. I'm in the DC area and definitely ride under 40F and up to 95F. This grade covers me on the top end but only goes down to 50F for operating temp. Seems silly to provide such a small range oil. I expect I would want to get 10W-40.

What grades do you guys use and why would the Yamalube kit only have 20W-50?

For reference: https://shopyamaha.com/product/deta...017|308&ls=yamaha-motor-company&dealernumber=
 

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I'm near Chicago, IL and put 10W-40 in mine for when I go on really cold/hot rides.

IMO, oil is oil since it's all made from the same layer of dead dinosaur. So just get what's on sale and get the right type: API SN or higher, JASO standard MA. Anything beyond that and you're succumbing to brand loyalty and marketing which leads to a placebo effect that one is better than the other.

Side note:I'm a bit of a nihilist...
 

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I’m in Texas so 10w50 mobile 1 full synthetic is perfect year round. Since the colder months are approaching in your area, you can use 10w40 from any other well known manufactures.

I have used practically all major brands oil for various bikes over the years and it’s imperative that you keep up with the oil maintanence than worry about the brand
 

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Pull up a chair........I sense an oil thread.
 

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I'm on the Yamaha website, and one of the accessories listed is an oil change kit for $41.99. Seems like a good price and has everything you need. The weird thing is that the oil is 20W-50, and there doesn't seem to be an alternative option for viscosity. I'm in the DC area and definitely ride under 40F and up to 95F. This grade covers me on the top end but only goes down to 50F for operating temp. Seems silly to provide such a small range oil. I expect I would want to get 10W-40.

What grades do you guys use and why would the Yamalube kit only have 20W-50?

For reference: https://shopyamaha.com/product/deta...017|308&ls=yamaha-motor-company&dealernumber=
10W 40 Semi recommended in the U.K. I’ve used Yamalube every time I’ve changed it (primarily because I like the shape of the bottle!), but just had my one year service, and the cheapwads at the dealer (Yamaha, no less), put Motul in! B*stards. I queried this, and he said he’d heard Yamalube was only rebranded Motul anyway (I think Yamaha's literature would dispute this).

As an interesting aside (may be more appropriate for an oil level thread @Schu! :wink2:) - the Koso’s oil light used the flick on and off for the first few minutes when I first fitted it. I wasn’t worried, as I’d read on the Bolt forum that it seemed more sensitive. After the dealer changed the oil/filter though, it’s not flicked on once. Wonder if I was running just ever so slightly on the low side. Either that, or they’ve over-filled it!!! >:)
Ben
 

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10W 40 Semi recommended in the U.K. I’ve used Yamalube every time I’ve changed it (primarily because I like the shape of the bottle!), but just had my one year service, and the cheapwads at the dealer (Yamaha, no less), put Motul in! B*stards. I queried this, and he said he’d heard Yamalube was only rebranded Motul anyway (I think Yamaha's literature would dispute this).

As an interesting aside (may be more appropriate for an oil level thread @Schu! :wink2:) - the Koso’s oil light used the flick on and off for the first few minutes when I first fitted it. I wasn’t worried, as I’d read on the Bolt forum that it seemed more sensitive. After the dealer changed the oil/filter though, it’s not flicked on once. Wonder if I was running just ever so slightly on the low side. Either that, or they’ve over-filled it!!! >:)
Ben
Nearing 14k miles with changes happening every 4k since broken in. Been using the 10w-40 yamalube and the KN-204 filter and haven't had any issues in Florida.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok thanks guys, I don't care that much about the brand, i just liked that it was a kit with everything but i can get it in pieces just fine. What about the drain plug gasket? Can i get that on amazon or somewhere else?
 

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What about the drain plug gasket? Can i get that on amazon or somewhere else?
Honestly, mine was in perfect shape for the 1st oil change so I just reused the original without issue. I think it's more important to tighten the bolts properly so if you don't have one get a torque wrench and make sure you tighten the bolt to 43nm. A strap wrench would be a good idea too :smile2:
 

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Honestly, mine was in perfect shape for the 1st oil change so I just reused the original without issue. I think it's more important to tighten the bolts properly so if you don't have one get a torque wrench and make sure you tighten the bolt to 43nm. A strap wrench would be a good idea too :smile2:
Tut tut tut - for the amount it costs (literally cents/pennies), I’d change it every time. Bloody nihilists......

Ok thanks guys, I don't care that much about the brand, i just liked that it was a kit with everything but i can get it in pieces just fine. What about the drain plug gasket? Can i get that on amazon or somewhere else?
Don’t know the size of it, sorry - never thought to measure it! Part No is 214-11198-01-00 though - your local dealer should be able to hook you up.
Ben
 

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Speaking of part numbers - found this list on the Bolt forum - could be useful, and is certainly interesting:



“I found this on another Yamaha forum (YamahaStarStryker.com) and thought a few people might be interested....

Here's how to break down the Yamaha part numbers:

For a Part Number in the format XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX

XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
The first three digits are the Model Code (every model in the Yamaha Product Line has a unique model number) all parts are given a Model Code of the first model they were used on.

XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
The middle five digits are the Basic Code number and indicate the section of the bike that the parts belong to (i.e. 11631 - piston; 11311 - cylinder etc.). A "W" substituted in the first position of this five-digit group (000-W0000-00-00) indicates a factory assembled kit which differs in content from the original assembly used in production (i.e. 2M0-W0046-00-00 – Rear Break Pad Ass’y).

XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
The next two digits are the Design Code and Design Change digits (so 01 means the part has had one design change).

XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
The last two digits are the Color or Finish Code.



For a Part Number in the format XXXXX-XXXXX-XX

All these parts are Hardware (fasteners), they all start with a '9' and end in '00'.
The second and third digits tells us what type of fastener:

0 - 'various'
1 - bolts, cotter pins
2 - screws, nuts
3 - oil seals, O-rings, bearings
4 - spark plugs
5 - bolts, nuts
6 - ISO bolts
7 - ISO screws and nuts


The fourth and fifth digits tell us what material/surface finish (e.g. chromed).
Digits six and seven give the diameter (inner or outer) e.g. 08 would be an M8 size.
Digits eight, nine and ten are the length (except for '901' bolts for some reason)
There are also standard fastener types...e.g.

90105-XXXXX are Washer based bolts
90116-XXXXX are Studs
90401-XXXXX are Union bolts
99999-XXXXX means that a part has been superseded by a kit

I found this in a link on the XS1100.com Forum: XS Part Number Finder - FAQ

Ben
 

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Yea, a lot of virago parts begin with 42x. In fact Suzuki also designates parts this way. Just some small differences.
When I am looking for a part for a bike, the bigger question I try to ask is, what else is it. As in - in what other bike did it appear.
For example. the C spec footpegs are 1-2" less offset than the SCR - the casting number is 65 SCR is 67. I wonder if the base bolt ones are 60 or 61.
 

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Tut tut tut - for the amount it costs (literally cents/pennies), I’d change it every time. Bloody nihilists......
Ben
Ahhh materialists... can't live with em, can't float an economy without em.

(This is just for laughs, I mean no offense)
 

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Ahhh materialists... can't live with em, can't float an economy without em.

(This is just for laughs, I mean no offense)
Aaaah now I know what he meant on that other thread Kristoph. LOL. I never even considered the dam thing needs a new washer.
In 200+ oil changes on bikes I may have never changed that one … and in 1998 I was working on someone else's bike that did need it changed cos the owner cant tell 15 ft-lb from 300 ft-lb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yep I have a strap wrench and a torque wrench, I'll also probably get the K&N filter though so I can use a socket on the end rather than the strap wrench to tighten.

Regarding the drain plug gasket, is it a crush washer or not? If it's a crush washer than its supposed to be one time use right? If it's a gasket it is more feasible to reuse.
 

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I'll also probably get the K&N filter though so I can use a socket on the end rather than the strap wrench to tighten.
Good call. A K&N oil filter will be going on my bike for the next oil change just for the convenience factor of tightening it with a socket instead of a strap wrench.

Regarding the drain plug gasket, is it a crush washer or not? If it's a crush washer than its supposed to be one time use right? If it's a gasket it is more feasible to reuse.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I reused mine and the oil plug is dry as a bone. It's your preference, IMO.
 
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