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Discussion Starter #1
Just finished the Stage 1 test ride today and have some food for thought on folks thinking about bolting on some go fast parts...

Vance and Hines Competition slip on exhaust - really good quality piece. Bike sounds great and the O2 sensor bolts right on
Bike runs great on this pipe with factory ECU / Fuel & stock airbox . It will pop back under spirited deceleration.
I paid $387.95 (Revzilla price match)

EJK fuel controller- plug and play. Comes out of the box programmed for a stage one kit. You can change fueling on the fly with push buttons on the controller if needed. Honestly works great out of the box. Highly recommended!
$231 from them direct shipped to my door

(Optional)
EJK says to unplug the O2 sensor ...run open loop. I did so with NO CODES therefore I spent $6 on the 18mm O2 plug as I don’t like the factory O2 sensor and wires hanging out of the exhaust bung .... (can’t wait for the responses on this)

(Optional)
Vented the crank case via a Uni Filter $14 - please read the thread on this - its very educational.....😳

K&N intake RK 3940 kit-
$173.99 - Amazon
There is a thread on this install as well.

Total = $792.94 for maybe 7 horsepowers on paper ...

Here where the real pay off is.
Right hand twists = Butt Dyno registers fun!
Bike make great V twin noises now. Roll on acceleration is drastic. Off the line short shifting through the gears is seamless. Crank the throttle and the bike comes alive - very very crisp throttle response!

The mods make the bike extremely rideable. Torque curve is linear and smooth. The bike is noticeably “lighter on its feet” off the line and in mid range. Fueling is smooth - eliminates that factory choppy throttle syndrome. Reving the bike it really pointless - it’s pretty much done what’s its gonna do at about 4500rpms - the over rev is ok for canyon corners if you are trying to cheat a gear shift I guess.

Bike sounds amazing - but not obnoxious. Throaty and mean - like an old big block Chevy. High RPM sounds are ok - doesn’t scream.
Bike will now quickly gain RPM growls along a flat linear torque curve throughout the RPM range... burbles and pops a little if you chop the throttle in that 4000rpm range in a good compression braking corner.

Overall it was a fun project and I definitely would recommend the build if it’s in the budget. The bike is great stock and/or with the bolt on exhaust too - the mods just let it be a little more raw. By this I mean - the stage one kit is really the way the bike should sound /perform / and feel from the factory...

It’s a shame bike manufacturers have them up corked up so much these days...

Next mod will be the high fender kit for the front.
 

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"Next mod will be the high fender kit for the front"

What is this high fender kit for the front?
I've been trying to brainstorm some means of doing this with aftermarket universal parts and haven't come close to anything I'd be willing to mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
"Next mod will be the high fender kit for the front"

What is this high fender kit for the front?
I've been trying to brainstorm some means of doing this with aftermarket universal parts and haven't come close to anything I'd be willing to mount.
I going to have an aluminum bracket CNC machined for mounting into the existing holes that the headlight uses in the triple tree- once I have it together I will send pix - if it looks like something you want I can send the template or have another made and sent out to you.
I will update costing asap
 

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the seat of the pants dyno is always a bit subjective, but i'm glad you felt it was worthwhile doing.
i also wonder how much was getting back some of the loss of thin oxygen at elevation since lean factory settings aren't helped any by running a mile high.
 

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the seat of the pants dyno is always a bit subjective, but i'm glad you felt it was worthwhile doing.
i also wonder how much was getting back some of the loss of thin oxygen at elevation since lean factory settings aren't helped any by running a mile high.
You know when your mouth is dry...
 

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the seat of the pants dyno is always a bit subjective, but i'm glad you felt it was worthwhile doing.
i also wonder how much was getting back some of the loss of thin oxygen at elevation since lean factory settings aren't helped any by running a mile high.
You know when your mouth is dry...
You're plenty high!
 

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The V&H Competition Series are supposed to have a fiberglass wrapped core. If so, this will need to be repacked from time to time.

I did this once a Supertrapp performance exhaust on my Suzuki LS650 after it got obnoxiously loud after most of the fiberglass got blown out. Here’s what Revzilla has to say about this often neglected chore:
https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/how-to-repack-a-muffler-or-silencer
 

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The V&H Competition Series are supposed to have a fiberglass wrapped core. If so, this will need to be repacked from time to time.

I did this once a Supertrapp performance exhaust on my Suzuki LS650 after it got obnoxiously loud after most of the fiberglass got blown out. Here’s what Revzilla has to say about this often neglected chore:
https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/how-to-repack-a-muffler-or-silencer
I'm curious, can you repack a silencer that originally fiberglass and use stainless steel wool instead?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
the seat of the pants dyno is always a bit subjective, but i'm glad you felt it was worthwhile doing.
i also wonder how much was getting back some of the loss of thin oxygen at elevation since lean factory settings aren't helped any by running a mile high.
Using the calculator link below:
factory 49HP
5850ft above sea level (garage)= 8.5hp loss

[The HP loss at 12000ft is staggering!!]

http://www.wallaceracing.com/braking-hp.php

So the stage one gains probably put me back to close to stock .....until I head up into the Rocky mountains ....
 

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