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Some people have mentioned experiencing front end wobble on their SCRs. Mine rolls steady and true and I'd like to keep it that way. Is it proactive to occasionally check/adjust the steering head torque? If so does anyone know the correct procedure for doing so? Thanks.
 

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Some people have mentioned experiencing front end wobble on their SCRs. Mine rolls steady and true and I'd like to keep it that way. Is it proactive to occasionally check/adjust the steering head torque? If so does anyone know the correct procedure for doing so? Thanks.
I'm on it, since Ben already has me referring to my service manual this evening. I will see if it is has anything on the steering head maintenance or set up.

My SCR shows no signs of wobble either. Hands free and it rolls steady and smooth from highway speeds right on down to slow speed when you better grab the bars again.

stay tuned
 

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I'm on it, since Ben already has me referring to my service manual this evening. I will see if it is has anything on the steering head maintenance or set up.
Hee hee
 

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Is it proactive to occasionally check/adjust the steering head torque? If so does anyone know the correct procedure for doing so? Thanks.
The manual recommends checking the steering bearings at 600 miles / 1,000km, and then again at 4,000 miles / 7,000 Km. From there you repeat every 4,000 miles / 7,000 Km.

The checking and adjusting process is more involved than I want to transcribe. I sent you a PM.

Schu
 

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Thanks! Have you checked yours? What's the torque setting?
I have not checked mine, but checking is the simple part because it's as crude as blocking up the bike and grasping the forks and gently rocking the front forks and moving them from right to left. Any looseness or binding and you skip to the head adjustments.

Head adjustment involves tearing it down to the lower spanner nut. You loosen that nut and retorque it to 52Nm or 38 lb-ft using the Yamaha steering nut wrench 90890-01403. It is basically a crows foot spanner wrench that allows you to use your torque wrench. I assume that the listed torque spec is based on the exact geometry of that Yamaha tool.

If you choose to tear down and grease the bearings, use a lithium soap based grease and reassemble with the lower spanner nut torqued as noted above.

That is the condensed version. You guys should jump on this Yamaha service manual before they become hard to get. I know it isn't cheap, but think of how often you drop $100 on other accessories without hesitation. I'm just saying....

Schu
 

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You guys should jump on this Yamaha service manual before they become hard to get. I know it isn't cheap, but think of how often you drop $100 on other accessories without hesitation. I'm just saying....

Schu
Federal regulations mandate any new road-going (NHTSA regulated) vehicles are supported with spare parts for at minimum the length of the vehicle's warranty. Usually the Emissions Warranty is longer than the standard "full coverage" warranty. The manual (as it is considered a related part and is necessary to repair said systems) should be available for that entire period. There is some debate as to whether manufacturers need to actually stock spare parts for that entire period, or just commit to a "repair" for that entire period. American Honda defacto keeps a stock of most spares for on-road motorcycles for 10 years. Some popular models even longer.

So we just need to find out when the last SCR950 is sold in the U.S. to figure out how long that manual should be available.
 

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So, I’ve been told by numerous dealers over here today that I can’t order a manual. Apparently, they aren’t available to mere customers any more, only the dealer techs, via some on-line portal. Maybe it’s fear of people attempting something themselves, bodging it, and then possible subsequent litigation. Who knows.....

Even when explaining its available in the US, and giving the part number clearly displayed on the front of the manual shown on a US eBay ad, no go. Apparently this is the case in the U.K. for all new Yam models over the past few years - MTs etc...... Ridiculous.

However......one lovely dealer, who has been asked by a customer for a workshop manual before (apparently, some owners DO still attempt routine maintenance, and give a **** how their machine works), told me that he is quite happy to download the manual onto a USB stick for me, providing I send him a copy of my V5 to prove I own the bike, even though he didn’t sell me the bike in the first place!

So.....potentially a result here! We may have access to an electronic copy shortly.
Ben
 

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So.....potentially a result here! We may have access to an electronic copy shortly.
Ben
It’s landed peeps - all 454 pages of 2017 SCR manual (Euro, of course) on a USB dongle - result!! Even managed to get a surreptitious shot of the database they downloaded it from......:wink2:

Next time I work nights’ in the office on my own, I’m going to print myself a copy :nerd:
Ben
 

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Hey guys,
I was looking thru the forum to see if any one else had this problem. If I let the bike coast down slowly under engine breaking from about 36-25mph with my hands off the bars I get a really bad death wobble just like you do at high speeds on bikes.
If I have my hands on the bars I can’t feel it at all. But if I take my hands off it wobbles. Not enough to throw me off the bike, if I grab the bars it stops?
Anyone else have this? Is it fixable?
Thoughts?

Thanks!
 

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Hey guys,
I was looking thru the forum to see if any one else had this problem. If I let the bike coast down slowly under engine breaking from about 36-25mph with my hands off the bars I get a really bad death wobble just like you do at high speeds on bikes.
If I have my hands on the bars I can’t feel it at all. But if I take my hands off it wobbles. Not enough to throw me off the bike, if I grab the bars it stops?
Anyone else have this? Is it fixable?
Thoughts?

Thanks!
https://www.allballsracing.com/
 

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It's a pain in the backside, but I checked/adjusted the steering head bearing torque at about 2,000 and again around 5,500 miles.
The SCR's got nearly 8k miles now and has recently new Michelin Anakee III rubber:
Zero head shake when coasting down or at all, really and on a variety of pavement (concrete, asphalt, rain grooved concrete.)
Shocks are on the base setting as delivered and the only mod to the bike that *might* have any effect is the addition of SV650 bar end weights.
I don't think the weights have any effect one way or another, though.
 

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