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Ma ninjas,
Anyone install a steering damper or fork brace ???
No to both.
The parent Yamaha Bolt is known for steering head shake, most likely attributed to excess head bearing play. I've adjusted the bearings in my SCR twice since new and the steering is nice and wobble-free. Just the other day, I was slowing down a long exit ramp and purposely took my hands off the bars to see if it'd misbehave. Nothing. It rolled nice & steady. =)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No to both.
The parent Yamaha Bolt is known for steering head shake, most likely attributed to excess head bearing play. I've adjusted the bearings in my SCR twice since new and the steering is nice and wobble-free. Just the other day, I was slowing down a long exit ramp and purposely took my hands off the bars to see if it'd misbehave. Nothing. It rolled nice & steady. =)
Thanks Ed,
will check that. rode my bike for the first time yesterday. tried to zip up my jacket and got some shake. got to wrestle this bike through everything. i have really good grip with the flat track tires i put on. I wanted to ask you about the ignition switch screws. i want to turn it around but the 30t tamper proofs don't want to come out. are they loctited ??? don't want to heat them up too much because the bracket is painted. haven't tried the impact driver yet because all the 30t tamper proofs i have are cheap ******. thanks bro
 

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I wanted to ask you about the ignition switch screws. i want to turn it around but the 30t tamper proofs don't want to come out. are they loctited ??? don't want to heat them up too much because the bracket is painted. haven't tried the impact driver yet because all the 30t tamper proofs i have are cheap ******. thanks bro
You can possibly heat the screws sufficiently by holding the tip of a soldering iron to them for a minute or two - just enough to melt the Loctite and not damage the surrounding paint. That worked with some Honda Gold Wing brake rotor bolts I dealt with a few years back.
 

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Yes, they're locktited. You will need an impact driver to remove them. Hand-held (hit it with a 5-lb whammus), or preferably air/electric impact gun. I initially tried with a 5-lb whammus (hammer) and a hand impact driver, and didn't have any luck. With the air impact it took seconds. You WILL bugger up the security torx bits if you just try to put torque on it with a wrench or breaker bar. They will not survive that, and then you'll be drilling them out.

Charles.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes, they're locktited. You will need an impact driver to remove them. Hand-held (hit it with a 5-lb whammus), or preferably air/electric impact gun. I initially tried with a 5-lb whammus (hammer) and a hand impact driver, and didn't have any luck. With the air impact it took seconds. You WILL bugger up the security torx bits if you just try to put torque on it with a wrench it was or breaker bar. They will not survive that, and then you'll be drilling them out.

Charles.
Thanks Charles, they are on there GOOD. i twisted one t30 already. but it was a cheap bit. did you look at trying to flip the large bracket that goes to the front head ??? it is offset to the one side. i don't feel like taking the tank off again. thanks bro
 

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i have really good grip with the flat track tires i put on.
Hey, what tires are you running?? I wasn’t thinking about putting on some Continental TKC 80’s because I like the look and actually ride a lot of gravel/dirt fire roads. But I’d really much prefer some more flat track-esqe tires but haven’t really seen much that would fit the stock rims. I’d be interested to hear about what your using and how they’ve been doing.
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Hey, what tires are you running?? I wasn’t thinking about putting on some Continental TKC 80’s because I like the look and actually ride a lot of gravel/dirt fire roads. But I’d really much prefer some more flat track-esqe tires but haven’t really seen much that would fit the stock rims. I’d be interested to hear about what your using and how they’ve been doing.
Thanks!
https://www.scr950forum.com/forum/345-wheels-tires-suspension/3153-buchanans-spoke-rim.html

shinko hard compound, tons of grip on asphalt !!! got to change the rear wheel to a 19".
 

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I've had a lot of post 2000 bikes taken apart and fixed for this.
n the name of fast whatever crap it is they are dreaming it is - the manufacturers have put the steering necks of these and every other bike with ball bearings with thin plastic cages and no lube.
Get into it early and you can pack it with nice synthetic lube and make a million miles.
Miss the boat - and no one knows where the boat os - cos it may be 10,000 miles for you but 1000 for me - depending on riding conditions, parking conditions, manufacturing defects etc etc … and you would have to replace the bearings with tapered needle roller bearings and grease the living daylights out of em.

I have about 30 of these I have in the last 15 yrs. 1996 is the earliest these went to crap … and that was on a GSXR 750, presumably Yamaha wasn't that far behind.
 
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