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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I did the valve lash inspection/adjustment on my girlfriend's 2012 V-Star 950 this afternoon.
It, the Bolt family and the SCR950 all share the same basic engine with just cosmetic differences..

Tool gathering, actual work with a throttle body synchronization afterward AND washing the bike took 3.5 hours.
It's nice having all the right tools on hand!

The bad first.
I had to take a ton of stuff off the bike just to get at the valve inspection caps and ruined a rubber wel-nut in the process. Not an issue as I keep a small supply on hand. The SCR950 doesn't have one to ruin. Her bike sips gas and despite the fact we rode 100+ miles yesterday, it still had a bunch of fuel in the tank. It's a lot bigger than the SCR's and cumbersome.
The good:
The inspection caps are held on with five 5mm hex head bolts each and have o-ring seals.
Be careful not to break one and they are reusable. The rear exhaust seal stuck 1/2 on the head, 1/2 on the inspection cap.
The inspection caps weren't terribly hard get at and are nice and big, allowing lots of room to work around the valves.
All four exhaust valves were in spec, favoring loose from the middle of the specified range. Happy! The intakes on the front cylinder were at the limit toward tight and the rears were a hair past loose.
I set all four in the middle at 0.10mm and buttoned things up.
When I went to check the throttle body synchronization, they were a gnat's eyelash from perfect. I tweaked the adjustment screw a tiny bit and the electronic balancer said it was dead-on.
The best part:
It was free.
I already had all the tools and with screw & locknut adjusters, no expensive shims required.

Tools: Needle nosed pliers, 4 & 5mm hex wrenches.
12mm box end wrench. 10mm, 12mm & 19mm sockets.
Small standard screwdriver. Brake cleaner. WD-40, silicone protectant (Armor -all, etc...) paper towels, feeler gauge set,
Familiarity with a f.i. fuel line quick connector.
Rags and a carb balancer if you want to do the synchronization when done.
Optional for me only because we just changed them:
2 NGK CPR7EA-9 spark plugs.
Bonus photo: My pit crew - Sherlock the cat.
 

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You are a man after my own persuasion, Eddie. I posted my valve check with a Star Bolt youtube video almost a year ago. Back then you replied you’d eventually get around to the V-Star 950 belonging to "She who must be trod lightly around"

That old post is here:
http://www.scr950forum.com/forum/337-engine-technical-discussion/1417-valve-clearance-check-adjustment.html

The thumbnail shows the page from the service log book I keep showing only the front intake needed slight adjustment to match its partner. The rocker arms run on needle roller bearings that give less wear than plain bushings.

It takes a fine touch with the feeler gage so I distinguished three stages with increasing thickness: easy slip, scuff, no go. Scuff is just right and is likened to the resistance pulling a sheet of paper out of a closed book.

Cheers, Ted
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
*snip*
It takes a fine touch with the feeler gage so I distinguished three stages with increasing thickness: easy slip, scuff, no go. Scuff is just right and is likened to the resistance pulling a sheet of paper out of a closed book. Cheers, Ted
I had two successive Honda XL600V Transalps with screw & locknut adjusters. Some yo-yo at Honda thought it would be neat to make the top of the screw a 4mm square. Try finding a 4mm open ended wrench! LOL Anyhow, I was dropping the 1st 'alp off at the shop 40 miles away every 6k miles and letting their ace mechanic do it. After the 3rd trip, he pulled me in the back to look at a Honda VLX he was working on (same basic engine) and said, "Here, Ed. Hold that feeler gauge in there. See how it kinda drags a little? That's what it's supposed to feel like when it's right. " He then showed me a loose one and a tight valve. Finished, he very nicely said he didn't need to see my 600 for a valve adjustment again. (wink). He handed me the Honda special 4mm wrench and told me to see the parts guy about ordering one of my own. It was a whole $9. That's way cheaper than the $180+ the shop got for a valve adjustment!! Danny and I have been friends for 27 years now. He moved on to a different shop and I still go see him from time to time.
 

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