Poppycock! Don't be afraid to take on this job if you can read a service manual AND have the mechanical aptitude AND tools. If you're lacking in ANY of those departments, take her to a shop.I'm seeing all kind of horror stories about getting the old races out. Any thoughts or comments?
Careful with the quiet valve theory, especially on a bike like the SCR with screw/locknut adjustment. In spec, they make a little racket. As they tighten up, the noise subsides. Quiet valves are like quiet 3 year olds: They're up to no good! :grin2:(snip)
As far as the valve settings go, here's a general rule of thumb that I have followed for 40 years and 29 motorcycles. If the valves aren't noisy and the bike isn't lacking power, leave them alone! I have bought several new bikes and typically sell them when I get around 25k miles on them. I have never checked or adjusted valves on any of them. I don't think that modern bikes need as much attention as, say, maybe an old Triumph. That said, it is about time for a valve check and a head retorque! But, she is 40 years old! Just my opinion. Jevers
I've got the manual and I believe I have the skills required, What specialty tools would I need?Poppycock! Don't be afraid to take on this job if you can read a service manual AND have the mechanical aptitude AND tools. If you're lacking in ANY of those departments, take her to a shop. Jevers
Any thoughts as to whether the SCR likes the valves loose or on the tight side?I've had several high-mile bikes come through the shop where the clearances had been set once and stayed pretty much in spec afterward. 7 of the 8 valves on my personal Yamaha 1200's were dead-on at the 1st inspection around 24,000 miles. One intake was like 0.001 out to the loose side. My veteran mechanic friend took one look and said, "Don't you dare pull that cam for that! It's fine! Leave it alone."
I believe the service manual will tell you exactly what speciality tools you will need.I've got the manual and I believe I have the skills required, What specialty tools would I need?Poppycock! Don't be afraid to take on this job if you can read a service manual AND have the mechanical aptitude AND tools. If you're lacking in ANY of those departments, take her to a shop. Jevers
Thx
Seeing how we don't have to play the "This shim is close enough" game, I'd just set them dead in the middle of the range. That's one of the cool things about screw & locknut adjustment. If they loosen or tighten, there's acceptable room.Any thoughts as to whether the SCR likes the valves loose or on the tight side?
Eddie. Don't you have aSeeing how we don't have to play the "This shim is close enough" game, I'd just set them dead in the middle of the range. That's one of the cool things about screw & locknut adjustment. If they loosen or tighten, there's acceptable room.Any thoughts as to whether the SCR likes the valves loose or on the tight side?
Frunkenfoto - Just for you.Eddie. Don't you have a
" FRUNK " to attend to?!😜 Just kidding, my friend. I'm happy and grateful that you still share your knowledge with us! Jevers
Exhaust valves in particular have a tendency to tighten up over time. Running them to the tight side could invite issues.OK, after much thought, I think I'm going to re-do these and set them both to the tight side. My reasoning is that they will open more and stay open longer thus getting more mix into the combustion chamber.
The intakes call out .08-.12 and the exhaust call out .22-.26 I think I'm going to set them at .09 and .23 respectfully. Any thought or reasons why this is a good or bad idea would be appreciated.
After 200 miles I can feel the difference in the bike, but I think it is mainly the spark plugs getting re torqued. :surprise:
Eddie,Exhaust valves in particular have a tendency to tighten up over time. Running them to the tight side could invite issues.
I'd leave them where you have them .