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Discussion Starter #2
Coincidentally, this is a nice view of the shaved/flattened stock seat, for those interested.
 

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Stripes on reservoir like Rokrover said, and number 42?

Today the last few parts i was waiting on arrived to try my hand at eliminating that plastic crap handing off the read fender.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Rokrover & Tadlock win!
I found some leftover reflective striping and black reflective tape in a drawer and that was the result.
=)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I saw these levers on Charley Boorman's bike and was drawn to the little holes.
Guess who dragged out his Harbor Freight drill press this evening and set about making some for his SCR950 on the kitchen table before "she" got home?
LOL
I then buffed them with 0000 steel wool and then gave them a proper polishing with a cotton wheel and some Meguire's Hot Rims mag polish.
Hey, it was a free project. Why not? LOL
 

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Like Eddie, I believe a number plate should have a number, and I was inspired by the artistic font used on a local cafe sign. The subtle association is with the cafe racer scene made famous by the Ace Cafe Rockers and the 59 club for vintage gents with an English heritage like me. However my local cafe is the 86 named after its frontage highway. I copied just the 8 to stay within single digits, unlike Eddie’s 42 whose significance may be revealed to the scrutineers.

Meanwhile, on the thread drift avoiding trouble when “she” comes home, my best was being caught with the oven emitting noxious fumes on the bake setting. Was I in trouble when “she” discovered a Ducati crankcase inside! My reasonable justification of preparation to shrink fit a new bearing fell on deaf ears :nerd:
 

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Feel like we should just have a thread for the shenanigans "she" catches us doing. :grin2:

Fuming ovens and holes in the kitchen table aside, where did you get the number 8 decal from?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
snip

Meanwhile, on the thread drift avoiding trouble when “she” comes home, my best was being caught with the oven emitting noxious fumes on the bake setting. Was I in trouble when “she” discovered a Ducati crankcase inside! My reasonable justification of preparation to shrink fit a new bearing fell on deaf ears :nerd:
I bought a toaster oven just for baking small painted parts. It has a skull & crossbones + "Not for food!" written on it. Gen appreciates it a lot - especially when she walks outside and sees wisps of smoke curling from the vents.
Bearing story: The shop where I used to hang out was run by a guy that was also into larger scale R/C airplanes. His flying friends drew upon his mechanical expertise and would ask him to rebuild their model aircraft engines from time to time. {Dan is also a retired Army A&P mechanic.}
"Here, eddie. Heat up this crankcase with the heat gun while I go get the crank bearings from the freezer."
I ran the hot air gun on one case for several minutes before asking, "This good enough?"
"Heat it some more!" (Okay)
When ready, Dan grabbed the case with an oily glove on and smoke instantly came off his hand. He nervously laughed, "I guess it was hot enough!"
 

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The "8" decal is not a store item. I took a picture of our local 86 Cafe sign and gave the jpg file to a custom vinyl design business, who do computer matched vehicle graphics. I was also thinking of doing the Japanese characters for Yama-Ha (mountain-leaf) but this is more complex, as you see from the attached.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Anyone else have a loose license plate light housing? Here's a cheap and easy fix.


I couldn't help but notice how loose the SCR950's license plate light housing is.
The bolts are tight and still it wobbles about enough to seem wrong some how.
I had a few minutes to kill. So, out came a #1 JIS cross head screwdriver and 8mm socket/ & driver.
The red reflector (24) must be removed first. Next, there are two sets of bolt/washer/nut/spacer assemblies to remove.

The issue, it appears, is that the rubber grommet/spacers (part #20) through the inner fender that aren't quite thick enough.
The bolts (22) tighten down on their metal washer/spacer (part 19), but there's still enough play to allow
the light housing to move about an awful lot.
I dug around in my spares and came up with an ordinary rubber grommet to shim things up.
The center is just big enough to allow #19 a snug fit through it.
I sliced the rubber part into two halves, like one would cut a bagel and that gave me the parts needed for each bolt.
I placed a new part onto each 9 and put it them into their 20 and bolted everything back up again.
No more tag light wobble!!
 

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Yes, my license plate light fixture is also "loose" but I figure this was designed on purpose so the rubber bushings damp high-frequency vibration that shortens bulb life.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yes, my license plate light fixture is also "loose" but I figure this was designed on purpose so the rubber bushings damp high-frequency vibration that shortens bulb life.
Oh, wow! I hope not!
If that's the case, I'm swapping it out for a LED "bulb".
=)
 

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Throttle calibration: I followed the by-the-book conservative break-in recommendation of limiting throttle opening to 1/3. There's not much else to go by without a tachometer so I marked the throttle at 0, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and Full open, as shown. After break-in this also helps with fuel economy unless you consider the throttle as a switch with only two settings - off and full bore. No need for a scale then!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Throttle calibration: I followed the by-the-book conservative break-in recommendation of limiting throttle opening to 1/3. There's not much else to go by without a tachometer so I marked the throttle at 0, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and Full open, as shown. After break-in this also helps with fuel economy unless you consider the throttle as a switch with only two settings - off and full bore. No need for a scale then!
Break in methods are almost as arguable as oil threads.
Suffice to say, everyone has their own method.
Mine might be a little on the conservative side.
Not too much, though.

I think the basic theory is really kind of simple:
Don't beat on it.
Don't lug it, either. (Or ever, for that matter)
Vary your speed.
Don't let it get too hot and change the oil after around 600 miles.

Out of fear, I really babied my 1st brand new mototrcycle, a 1991 CB750 Honda. It would use a little oil between changes. Four years later, I broke in a second, identical CB750 and was cautious for 100 miles, changed the oil then and again at 600 miles and rode it "briskly" thereafter. About 35,000 miles later, I traded it and it'd never used an appreciable amount of oil like the 1st one did. Same owner, same weather, same oil. Different break ins, different outcomes. Luck? Maybe.
 
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