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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys, I'm new here. And I know there are probably a bunch of posts about this very topic but reading through some of them I realize I'm still missing seemingly common knowledge. I just got 2 new tires on my scr950 and I have them set back up. I know nothing really about how to adjust the rear wheel to be aligned and to properly set the belt tension. I'm really trying to get the bike don't by Saturday so I can take it on maybe a 120 mile road trip. I guess I'm starting from scratch and looking for help.

-Ps67
 

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Hello guys, I'm new here. And I know there are probably a bunch of posts about this very topic but reading through some of them I realize I'm still missing seemingly common knowledge. I just got 2 new tires on my scr950 and I have them set back up. I know nothing really about how to adjust the rear wheel to be aligned and to properly set the belt tension. I'm really trying to get the bike don't by Saturday so I can take it on maybe a 120 mile road trip. I guess I'm starting from scratch and looking for help.

-Ps67
Hopefully you can see the manual via this link:


Page 7-23 you need.

17940


And welcome, BTW

Ben
 

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Oh yes.....it’s 10 lb of pressure you want to be applying to the belt to measure deflection accurately......we’ve discussed that previously too:


Cheers,

Ben
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Oh yes.....it’s 10 lb of pressure you want to be applying to the belt to measure deflection accurately......we’ve discussed that previously too:


Cheers,

Ben
Do you need to know the marks on the belt slack hole on belt guard. I get that that does not really make sense but what are the measurements in that hole? And when im adjusting the belt slack and rear wheel alignment do I do the belt slack first or the rear wheel straight? Can I use a tape measure for to get it straight?
 

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Wish I could be helpful on this matter but I'm a newbie on this. Having owned BMW f800s and f800gt I'm a big fan of belt drive on my daily all weather ride, but the Beemer was single side swingarm and when removing wheel the belt was untouched. This week I had a new rear tyre fitted I was not present when this was done but belt was as left it, my fitter did not even mention it, so I presume he just did opposite of removal.
Beemer belt was 4 years or 24 thousand miles no adjustment needed some riders did 40 thousand miles plus.
 

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Additional to post maybe worth checking Yamaha bolt forum as there is much information on many issues that affect our SCR bikes.
 

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Do you need to know the marks on the belt slack hole on belt guard. I get that that does not really make sense but what are the measurements in that hole? And when im adjusting the belt slack and rear wheel alignment do I do the belt slack first or the rear wheel straight? Can I use a tape measure for to get it straight?
If you hold up a ruler to the marks in the window on the belt guard, I think you will see the marks on there are metric (i.e. mm’s/cm’s), to help you measure belt deflection/slack when you apply the required pressure.

I’ve attached two screenshots from the actual workshop manual - hopefully they help. They explain the whole process, and show the required torque specs for the axle nut etc.

If you want to ‘freestyle’ it (ie you don’t have the required gauge to check slack), an old Harley guide used to be, you should be able to ‘twist’ the belt about 45 degrees when you grab it.....any more, and it’s too slack, but if you can’t twist it that much, then it’s too tight.

As for your next question - which do you do first - wheel alignment or belt slack.....that’s the trick......you need to do both!! :ROFLMAO:

I think I usually try to get the wheel straight first, and then adjust the belt slack, adjusting each side equal amounts accordingly (and thereby hopefully retaining the wheel alignment you’ve just sorted!!). In reality, you sort of muddle through, doing a bit of both at the same time, trial-and-error like. You’ll figure it out 👍

Ben

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